Monday, March 26, 2007

First Semester Baking Notes

Yeast Breads


Check flavor

  • bitter? Salty? Yeasty?

  • bitter: too long proofing – yeast over-fermented


Check for even browning

Check for good scoring/docking

Check for browning on bottom and between seams, etc.


Bread flour: high gluten content


Soft breads – gluten strands are “shortened” by fat or bran


Measuring by weight is more accurate than by volume due to density differences

-except: milk; eggs; water

-eggs: 2 oz / egg


5 Leavening Agents

  • Yeast

  • Baking Soda (bicarbonate of soda)

  • Baking Powder (bicarbonate of soda + other ingredients; needs water and acid to activate)

  • Steam

  • Air



Eggs

  • leavening agent

  • adds richness

  • shortens dough

  • color

  • adds flavor


Fat (butter, shortening)

  • use butter for better taste and mouth feel!

  • Shortening is easier, cheaper, more consistent

  • tenderizer

  • flavor

  • adds moisture

  • increases shelf life


Sugar

  • sweetener

  • texture (shortener)

  • adds color

  • increases shelf life

  • caramelizes


Lean yeast dough : flour, salt, water, yeast

American flour – lower extraction rate than European flour



Instant yeast – needs no hydration


Active dry yeast – needs hydration / proofing (use 25% more than instant)


34° - 40° - Dormant

50° - Slowly wakes up

60° - 70° - More active

70° - 90° - Optimal temp to activate

120° - Fermentation Slows


*Yeast: microorganism that eats simple sugars producing CO2 and alcohol


Salt

  • adds flavor

  • elasticity

  • helps gluten stretch


*Gluten is made up of (2) proteins:

  • Glutenin – extends dough

  • Gliadin – elasticity



Factors affecting gluten formation

  • gases

    • CO2 from yeast / baking soda / baking powder

    • air (from kneading, etc.)

    • steam (from water)

  • flours

    • strong (high protein) – bread flour

    • weak (low protein) – cake flour

  • shortenings

    • fats

    • bran in flours

  • liquids

    • needed to develop gluten

  • mixing methods

    • more mixing = more texture from gluten development




12 Steps to Yeast Bread

Scaling

  • liquid ingredients by volume

  • dry ingredients by weight


Mixing

  • to combine ingredients

  • distribute yeast evenly

  • develop gluten


Fermentation

  • yeast acts on sugars to produce CO2

  • longer fermentation @ lower temperature (to slow yeast) means more flavor


Punch-down

  • deflating the dough

  • expels gas

  • redistribute yeast

  • deflate gluten


Scaling

  • weigh dough [into portions]


Rounding

  • round dough into uniform balls / shapes


Benching

  • rest dough to relax for shaping


Make-up / Panning

  • dough shaped into loaves / rolls

  • gas bubbles expelled


Proofing


Scoring / Docking

  • slash dough to allow bread to rise uniformly


Baking

  • oven spring – first few minutes


Cooling

  • remove from pans to allow air circulation

  • cool 30-45 minutes


Storage

  • cool before wrapping

  • do not refrigerate

3 Mixing Methods for Yeast Dough


Sponge Method

  • Lower Fermentation time for finished dough

  • more flavor

  • stronger fermentation for rich doughs

  • less yeast used – multiplies during fermentation


Straight Dough

  • combine all dry ingredients and briefly mix, add water and mix smooth, or;

  • soften yeast in water, combine dry ingredients with more liquid and add yeast


Modified Straight Dough

  • soften yeast

  • combine fats, sugars, salt, flavorings

  • add eggs, mix

  • add flour, yeast

  • mix until smooth


milk: + flavor, + color, + keeping, nutrition

flour: structure, texture

salt: flavor, strengthens gluten, inhibits yeast

yeast: leavening

fats: add flavor, tenderizes, + shelf life, moisture

eggs: color, flavor, structure, leavening

sugar: tenderize, flavor (sweetener), creaming agent, color, fuels yeast


*don't over-ferment, over-mix, or over-proof rich doughs; proof to 75%


  1. Scaling ingredients

  2. mix

    • sponge

    • creamed mixture

    • dough

  1. Fermenting (sponge)

  2. Punching

  3. Scaling

  4. Rounding**

  5. Benching**

  6. Panning

  7. Proofing, eggwash

  8. Baking

  9. Cooling, glazing

  10. Storage


Rich Doughs


Rich Doughs

  • 40% sugar, 60% fat

  • under-fermented, under-proofed

  • sugar creamed w/ fat

Rolled-in Doughs

  • Danish, croissant, puff pastry

  • 250 layers in croissant

  • 2400 layers in puff pastry

  • Danish dough is sweeter

  • cold fat turns to steam in oven to leaven along w/ yeast

  • only slightly mixed due to rolling-in


Tips for Mixing:

  • dough must be smooth and free of dry spots

  • do not mix in all flour at once

  • dough rests in fridge, gluten relaxes

  • do not develop gluten w/ prolonged mixing

  • folding


*hard flour used to strengthen gluten structure for stretching rather than breaking

*soft flour ratio is proportionate to amount of turns recipe requires


Rolling out dough

  • roll from center to top, then bottom, then sides

  • ~ ½ inch thickness uniform

  • be forceful but not reckless


Resting

  • chilling time is important, relaxes gluten

  • too long: butter gets to hard

  • if butter can be felt through dough, it's too hard




Biga – pre-ferment

  • 10 oz bread flour

  • 2 tbsp rye flour

  • 1 tsp yeast

  • 8 fl oz water






Danish and Croissant Dough

  • rolling-in process encloses the fat in the dough, increases layers of dough

  • creates flaky texture

  • butter is best for flavor

  • sugar is mixed with the fat


Make-up

  • types of Danish:

    • cherry

    • cheese

    • bear claw

    • pinwheel

    • vol au vents

  • under-proof products

  • egg wash after makeup for moisture

  • proof croissants @ room temperature 1 ½ - 2 hrs

  • proof Danish until marshmallow-like in texture


Baking

  • clear glaze (for Danish): makes a shiny product, locks in moisture

  • croissants: 375°, 10 min

  • filled croissants: 375°, 20 min

  • Danish: 350°, 20 min


Croissant make-up (bake 375°, 10 min)

  • divide dough into 4 equal parts

  • roll out to 8”W x 24”L x 1/8” Th

  • mark every 4” on top

  • start 2” in on bottom, marking every 4”

  • make ½” cut in base, pull apart

  • roll forward, stretching tip away

  • place tip down & to the rear

  • curve ends inward for butter; leave straight for shortening

  • egg wash


Danish Make-up (350°, 20 min)







Puff Pastry

  • Laminate Dough

  • creating layers that rise up to 4x original height

  • Products:

    • Napoleons

    • Pithiviers

    • Palmiers

    • cheese straws

    • conversations

  • no yeast v. Danish / croissants


Mixing methods: Classical and Blitz

  1. Classical

  • butter lock-in

  • 6 book turns w/ 45 min rests in fridge after each

  • time consuming

  • higher rise than blitz

  • 1:1 ratio of butter to dough

  1. Blitz

    • cut cold butter into flour

    • 4 turns immediately

    • 1 hr rest

    • 2 turns before make-up

    • fast

    • less labor

    • more butter tenderizes gluten

    • cake flour allows for more turns w/ less gluten development


Rolling out dough

  • all resting is done in fridge

  • gluten activation

  • cold dough is best

  • use even pressure

  • rest dough if too elastic

  • freezing dough (up to 3 months)


Make-up

  • cut dough when cold, firm

  • rest in fridge before baking

  • avoid touching edges

  • egg wash, don't drip on sides: inhibits layers rising


Baking

  • high temperature: 400° - 425°

  • too low: steam won't develop

  • too high: crust sets, raw interior

  • shrinkage – not cold enough

Palmier make-up

  • divide dough in half

  • roll out (using sugar in place of dusting flour) to 6”x18”

  • do two more book turns to make (6) total

  • still using sugar, roll out to 12”x12” x 1/8” thick

  • mark center

  • roll inward from top, bottom to center

  • rest in fridge 1 hr

  • slice across sections, ½” apart

  • press w/ palms 2” apart on pans

  • rest 15 min

  • bake 375° convection, or 400° still for 10 min

  • flip, bake 10 min more

Turnover make-up

  • divide dough into (4) equal parts

  • do two more book turns to make (6) total

  • roll out to 4”x12”

  • cut into (4) 4”x3” pieces

  • egg wash inside

  • fill bottom half

  • fold over, crimp

  • egg wash & score top

  • rest 30 min

  • bake 400° convection, 10 – 15 min

Quick Breads


Ingredients

  • fats – liquid v. solid

  • chemical leaveners

    • baking soda: bicarbonate of soda; releases CO2 w/ liquid and acid

    • baking powder: bicarbonate of soda, acid (cream of tartar), cornstarch (prevents caking); reacts 2x w/ moisture and heat

  • flours, eggs, liquids: room temperature


3 Mixing Methods for Quick Breads

  1. Creaming (rich, cake-like texture)

    • high fat products

    • cream soft butter w/ sugar

    • mix liquids

    • sift dry ingredients together

    • alternate adding dry, then liquid ingredients to butter mixture

  1. Biscuit (flaky texture; dry, flat cake)

    • sift dry ingredients

    • cut in cold fat

    • combine liquids separately

    • add wet to dry mix in a well

    • mix

    • knead, make-up, bake

    • rise to 2x height

  1. Muffins (soft, tender texture)

    • sift dry ingredients

    • combine liquids

    • add liquid to dry

    • mix


Problems with Mixing

  • tunneling: over-mixing creates air pockets that tunnel upward during baking

  • bitter flavor: unsifted leaveners, rises too fast, falls

  • crust too thick (on cakes): high sugar, low temperature

  • flat top, peak in center: low temperature

  • cracked top: high temperature

  • no rise: damaged (not fresh) leaveners